Oaxaca and the Pacific Coast

Today you can explore the trendy parks, avenues and terraces of the Roma and La Condesa districts on a half day cycling tour with a local guide. You’ll have the chance to discover these trendy bohemian neighbourhoods, from the Art Deco architecture to quiet side-streets, with stop-offs in galleries, bookstores and designer shops. Spend the rest of the day taking in the city’s history and experiencing modern Mexico life, by exploring at your own pace. Alternatively, we could arrange a private tour of the city’s markets or arrange tickets to a Mexican wrestling match at Arena Mexico.

Mexico isn’t just a big city, it’s a mega city. From Tenochtitlan to Chilango, history has left indelible contrasting marks in its wake. Spend today exploring the Historical Centre, where The Great Temple, dedicated to Huitzilopochtli and Tlaloc (the Aztec gods of war and agriculture), adjoins the imposing Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary. In Saint Joseph’s chapel, Christ with cocoa beans is a nod to the Aztec god Tlaloc. At the National Palace and the Palace of Fine Arts, the works of 20th-century mural painters (José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Diego Rivera) express the tensions and dynamics that still exist in Mexican society today. In Polanco, under its aluminium sheath, the Sumaya Museum presents the art collection of Carlos Slim, ‘the richest man in the world’. Indulge in some shopping on President Masaryk Avenue, relax under the branches of the Bosque de Chapultepec or visit the National Museum of Anthropology.

Today you will pick up your rental car ready for the drive to Puebla, whose historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We love the colonial architecture and the breath-taking view of the Popocatepetl, which rises to a height of more than 17,700ft. While here, sample the regional delicacy ‘mole poblano’, a spicy sauce with chilies, almonds and cocoa used to season meats.

There’s plenty to see and do while staying in Puebla, from admiring the magnificent Talavera pottery, brightly coloured facades of the beautiful stately mansions and the opulent decor of the churches and cathedral (the Capilla del Rosario of Santo Domingo Church, also known as the eighth wonder of the new world and renowned for its 24-carat gold leaf), to strolling through the bohemian El Barrio del Artista (artists’ district) or venturing down Callejon de los Sapos, a colourful street where antique shops spread their wares all across the pavements.

This afternoon, you can head 13 miles out of the city to Cholula, which is famed for its large pyramid with the Our Lady of Remedies Church perched at the top, framed by the snow-covered summit of Popocatepetl in the distance. This vast pyramid has been shaped and enhanced by several civilisations including the Olmecs, Toltecs, Zapotecs and Aztecs. The Spanish invaders discovered nearly 400 similar buildings when the city was captured in 1519, so Cortès vowed to build 365 churches in the city (only 37 materialised). Also worth a visit is the Franciscan convent of Archangel Gabriel – one of the oldest in Mexico. It is located on the ruins of a temple dedicated to Quetzalcoatl, and the Casa Del Caballero Aguila, built in the 16th century, which houses the city museum and some beautiful art galleries.

Today you’re back on the road to head to Oaxaca, capital of the state of the same name, nestled on the side of the Sierra Madre del Sur, more than 5,000 feet above sea level. As you drive, the landscapes of the volcanic plain gradually give way to those of the mountains, and candelabra-shaped cacti will surround you in this desert universe. Once you arrive, settle into your hotel, where you’ll be staying for the next three nights.

Oaxaca is undoubtedly Mexico’s creative hub, with many of the country’s most recognisable arts and crafts – the brightly coloured carved wooden animals, famous black pottery and vivid textiles, to name a few – hailing from these artisan villages. You can find them dotted around the region and they are easy to visit in a day, with trips starting from Oaxaca. The city itself is as impressive as its surroundings, with the huge tree-shaded Zocalo square, the imposing Santo Domingo Church and the numerous indigenous markets. All of which are within walking distance from each other, making this a great place to explore on foot. What’s more, the city is home to some of the best restaurants and street stalls in the country and there is no better way to soak up Oaxaca’s vibrant café culture than over a delicious hot tamale or, for the brave, some grasshoppers. The region’s dramatic mountain landscape also makes this an adventurer’s dream, with everything from hiking and biking to climbing and riding available.

For something a little more cultural, the impressive Zapotec site of Monte Alban just outside the city shouldn’t be missed. Monte Alban is the great city of Zapotec culture – abandoned in the seventh century, it was later occupied by the Mixtecs. Temples, pyramids, tombs and recreational parks are located around a huge plaza built on a levelled peak.

Today we could also arrange a private cooking class, or a high-altitude hike in the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca.

Early this morning, head to the airport for a short flight to Mexico City before journeying onwards with another short flight to Puerto Escondido. It’ll be worth the journey, as you’ll now spend three nights staying in a peaceful haven right on the ocean. This stretch of pristine coastline has been transformed into a private paradise for beach lovers. Spend your days relaxing on the beach or by the pool, or doing activities like surfing and kayaking. You can also venture out to explore the port town’s eateries for lunch or dinner.

This small port, surrounded by palm trees, is renowned for its hippie atmosphere and huge waves. There’s a beach to suit every mood; those more experienced surfers should head to Zicatela, while novices to La Punta. The Playa Principal has more of a family vibe while Manzanillo and Angelito are great for swimming and snorkelling. Those in search of romantic walks should head to Bacocho. And then there is the hinterland, behind the high mountains that rise above the bay, where you’ll find small villages, markets and fiestas. You can also spend your days doing watersports, going horse-riding or enjoying some bird watching, all finished off with a cocktail while you watch the glorious Pacific sunset.